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SL-24 Laser Square
Flooring layouts (90°
& 45°) tile,
wood,
& stone, vinyl &
carpet
For shorter distances the 2 lines at 45° &
90° are the choice
for tile, wood and VCT.
Projecting upwards of 40 feet in either direction, the lines can be troweled
through because they appear on top of the mortar or adhesive.
The dots will travel up to 600 feet and can hit
the floor at both ends using the adjustment knobs then snap back to the hash
marks on the laser for a perfect 90° or 45°.
Layout times can be cut 60-90% over conventional methods.
The center leg can be removed to set up on the exact corner of the tile
Cutting wood end boards at 90°
or 45° eliminates
the loss of you snap
line under saw dust.(eliminates
the problem of losing
the snap line under a
pile of saw dust since
the laser will project
over the top of it).
Only one direction of grid lines needs to be snapped and then hash marked with
the grid. Move the laser for each grid row and trowel through (past) the line.
Cutting
Carpet
Most dealers add 3 or more inches to each cut and
at $6 or $7 per yard. At 15 cuts a day this equals the cost of a brand new cutting
machine each year!
Put the line or dot down the salvage edge and cut
across the other line. The dot mode can be used if the distance and wrinkling
carpet are a factor. Just hit the stand up cutter when cutting across the width.
This gives a perfect 90° cut every time, with much less waste. Square remnants
and rugs the same way!
Pattern
matching (carpet)
Know if the match is either bowed or skewed too
much. Using the laser on a pattern hit the target further down the salvage edge.
Shoot across the width to the target on the other side to check skew; then slide
the target to the middle to check bow.
Estimate
floor conditions (Square)
Simply set the laser in the corner of a room and
adjust knobs to project 2 lines, one off of each wall, and it will be obvious
to the customer and you if the room is out-of-square, and if so, by how much.
Select the customer's "favorite"
wall and note it to be
the starting "net"
wall. Then check for
out-of-flat and note
which condition needs
attention. Assuring the
customer that each of
the 2 problems will be
corrected really hits
home when the next bidder
misses both of these
conditions.
You can be 5-10% higher in your bids and still
get the job, because you know what has to be done, especially when the other
bidder simply says, "It looks ok," or "We should be ok." This
means instant sales here for you!
Slopes
to a drain
Position the laser over the drain, level the vials
and hit the target at the end of the room or pan which will be filled with mortar.
Adjust the level line on the target to a point equaling the desired slope to
the drain. Then position the screed near the laser and the height desired at
the drain.
Draw a parallel line in the screed and then apply
the mortar and screed away from the laser keeping the red line on the screed
line. This automatically guaranties the desired pitch (from level).
Floor
conditions (out-of-flat)
Simply shoot the horizontal lines at the target
center on both sides. Move the target around the room to detect the exact amount
that needs to be filled or ground. Depth nails are provided to clip off in the
low spot that will act as a dip-stick for self-leveling products and the tip
of the screed can rest on the pin while screeding in a circle around the pin.
Floor
conditions (out-of-level)
Use the same process as above but adjust both levels
to center vial and the target will tell you whether to grind or fill.
If you prefer not to grind, move the laser to an obvious high spot which will
indicate where to fill the floor. Again, use the leveling pins for accuracy.
Although most floor specs are listed as out-of-flat occasionally, out-of-level
is necessary.